monday saw a fun peaky 4-6ft NE swell hit our coast with winds out of the west all day....keeping a close eye on the forecast for a few days, i knew it was coming so i packed the van and headed north.
what i found was beach break setups to make any surfer lose his mind! hollow A frame peaks along
every beach i visited and not a soul in sight.....i picked a bank and surfed all day until the wettie rash on my neck bled....to be honest it was a little unnerving sitting out the back on a gloomy day with no one around...the mind starts to wander, but i figure...no one has ever been eaten by a shark in the tube right?? so i stuck to that idea and tried to spend more time in the tunnel than sitting out the back....

the absolute solitude, pure stoke and time for reflection was priceless,...good for the soul indeed....
hope ya'll gettin some wherever you are:)