surfed this left yesterday morning with my brother. we were sitting out the end of the
wall on the entrance to a river mouth, no one out only like two people
on the beach..it was getting bigger and breaking further out the back..we had been
out for about half hour and starting to enjoy picking the right ones..until, a
massive fuckin shark raises his fin about 30M in front of us and was coming in hot.
he was coming straight at us and we both instantly turned and paddled for the beach!
-missed the first wave and then picked up a little swell and made it in...if he really
wanted to eat us i suppose he would've, he could have covered that distance
easily while we were scrapping for a wave in.....that was enough excitement for one
day- i retired (with all my limbs) and drank a few beers. the mullet have just
started to run so hopefully he's well fed? hope i don't see
him out this this morn!
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